8 ways to find calm in Thailand’s larger-than-life capital city

Bangkok may have a reputation as one of the world’s biggest concrete jungles, but in between the neon-lit streets, rooftop bars and crowded markets there are some glorious pockets of calm. The city’s network of canals help create breathing space among the tuk-tuk packed neighbourhoods, and there’s a surprising amount of green space in the city’s environs — accessible by boat, bike or on foot. Here are eight of our favourite hideaways. 

1. Above Riva

One of several plush hotels lining the Chao Phraya River, the Riva Arun is noteworthy for its peaceful, top-floor terrace restaurant, Above Riva. You can ease into the day with breakfast or settle in for sunset cocktails, watching boats crisscross the river. The dinner menu goes big on both Thai and European dishes with a twist — such as duck confit green curry or fettuccine with a tom yum goong (hot and sour Thai soup) sauce.

2. Bang Kachao

You’ll need to dedicate a little more time — either a half or full day — to visit this artificial island known as Bangkok’s ‘green lung’. Book a bike tour from the city, which starts with a boat ride before you pedal through 6.2sq miles of mangroves. Tours typically pass through Sri Nakhon Khuean Khan Park and Botanical Garden and past the small villages and markets that dot the canals.

3. Jim Thompson House Museum

With its tranquil gardens and canalside setting, the elegant former home of American Jim Thompson, who helped to transform the Thai silk industry, is about as peaceful as it gets. Take a walk through the Thai teakwood buildings to learn about the artefacts, fabrics and art inside, before wandering through the gardens. Leave time for an iced coffee at the cafe afterwards.

4. Bang Prathun coconut community

Local farmers still practise traditional coconut harvesting at Bang Prathun in southwest Bangkok, one of the city’s last remaining coconut orchards. You can visit independently, but booking a trip with a local guide or as part of a community tour will give you a better understanding of the local way of life and the traditional methods used in the orchards. You’ll also have the chance to try fresh coconut products and family recipes.

5. Baan Silapin

Also known as Ban Silapin, this centuries-old, traditional Thai-style wooden house and gallery is located in the Thonburi area, right on the canal. It’s a fascinating escape from the more contemporary side of the city, where traditional shows are performed using intricate puppets, with plotlines from Thai folklore. Paintings, masks and puppets line the walls and there’s a small cafe selling iced coffee and tea to help you cool off.

6. MOCA Bangkok

Galleries often offer respite in frantic cities, and MOCA (the Museum of Contemporary Art) Bangkok is a perfect example. It’s calm, quiet and cool — quite literally, as the aircon will provide some relief from the sticky city. You’re not just here for the atmosphere, of course, but for the five floors of permanent and rotating exhibitions of Thai modern art. While weekday mornings are the quietest, you could combine your trip here with frenetic Chatuchak market, a 10-minute drive away, which is at its liveliest on Saturdays and Sundays.

7. Suan Somdet Ya

Hop on an express boat on the Chao Phraya River and get off at Memorial Bridge Pier. From there it’s a short walk to Suan Somdet Ya (Princess Mother Memorial Park), where you can learn about where Princess Srinagarindra grew up. She was the mother of Thailand’s ninth and longest-serving king, Bhumibol Adulyadej (1946-2016). Take a wander through the large garden, pause at her statue and then head for lunch at My Grandparent’s House, a cafe on the water.

8. Talad Phlu market

You’ll have your fill of markets and street food in Bangkok, but if you find the noise and chaos a little overstimulating, Talad Phlu in Thonburi is one of the most popular with locals and least hectic (although don’t expect silence). There’s a big Chinese community and it feels untouched by tourism, with stalls selling cheap dishes made roadside. Seek out crispy pork with rice and khanom buang (Thai crispy pancakes). It’s easy to reach on the BTS Skytrain, and great for lunch or dinner.