A code named Cannes

If there is one thing that has often taken the spotlight – sometimes away from the films at Cannes – it’s the festival’s red carpet. Hosted most years a week to two after the Met Gala, the world’s most elite and glamorous film event has over the years turned into a default MET 2.0 for those who couldn’t do their bit on the first Monday of May.

This intensely followed and talked about red carpet has played a huge role in elevating the festival’s global cultural significance and recognition.

And the growing presence ofinfluencers has been a catalyst in this transition. Fashion and cinema’s biggest brand ambassadors often use the coveted carpet to create a high couture moment – one that would generate buzz – long after the winners are announced and the lights dimmed. Imagine then the havoc that was wrecked when Cannes announced its controversial dress code – no voluminous trails or naked outfits – just days before the festival commenced.“For decency reasons, nudity is prohibited on the red carpet, as well as in any other area of the festival. Voluminous outfits, in particular those with a large train, that hinder the proper flow of traffic of guests and complicate seating in the theater are not permitted,” said the festival on its official charter, adding, “The festival welcoming teams will be obligated to prohibit red carpet access to anyone not respecting these rules.

”The New York Times has interpreted the dress code as a calculated act of caution “to prevent the sort of attention-grabbing stunt that occurred at the Grammys in February, when Ye crashed the red carpet with his wife Bianca Censori, only to have her take off her fur coat to reveal her fully naked body.” Others, like the BBC, called it a sign of the times the world lives in. “At a time when cultural conservatism is on the rise, it feels in line with the increasing policing of women’s bodies – in this case, under the banner of ‘decency’,” they wrote.

Fashion and culture commentators too are divided even as guests were seen both flouting the ban and sticking to the brief. But with every photo call, the one thing that everyone’s talking about is this: did you get the memo? If the idea was to get everyone to talk ONLY about the films and the makers and the actors, it may have just backfired.

The protest at the red carpet

Rule-breaking has long been part of the theatrics that define the Cannes red carpet. Remember when Cate Blanchett walked barefoot? Or when Kristen Stewart defied the “heels only” rule by taking off her six-inch stilettos on the red carpet? This kind of attention has also turned the red carpet into a stage for protest. From Bella Hadid’s keffiyeh-inspired dress and Cate Blanchett’s gown lined with the Palestinian flag, to Kani Kusruti’s watermelon-shaped clutch (a symbol of solidarity with Gaza), Cannes has witnessed many moments of quiet political expression.