What to see and do in Ibiza’s historic capital

Founded on the White Isle’s southeastern coast by seventh-century Phoenicians, Ibiza Town — known to locals as Eivissa — is one of Spain’s oldest cities. Over the centuries, Mediterranean tides brought countless conquerors to its shores, many of whom left their mark on Dalt Vila, the city’s fortified, UNESCO-listed old quarter. And yet, such is Ibiza’s beach-holiday and clubbing fame that its capital’s historical riches, along with its flourishing culinary scene and quietly bohemian energy, continue to fly under the radar. While many local businesses close between November and Easter, a well-timed visit to this layer cake of a city makes for an absorbing shoulder-season break — perfect for those keen to sidestep the high-season crowds.

The city’s old town is characterised by a tangle of sloping, whitewashed lanes, where drying clothes hang from balconies and hot-pink bougainvilleas spill over walls. Make for Dalt Vila’s highest point, where a cobbled square, Plaça de la Catedral, looks onto colossal 16th-century ramparts, built to protect Ibicencos from marauding seafarers. Looming above it all lies Catedral d’Eivissa, a pale stone basilica built in the gothic style, on the site of the city’s Moorish-era mosque. Just behind it, Castell d’Eivissa, a collection of restored Moorish and Catalan ruins, is set to become a smart Parador hotel in 2025. You can dig deeper into the city’s Arabic history at the Centre d’Interpretació Madina Yabisa. The intimate museum’s artefacts and audiovisual displays shine a light on Ibiza Town between the 8th and 12th centuries, when the city was a thriving port town under Islamic rule.

Rolling views across the city’s terracotta rooftops and glimmering marina crop up throughout Dalt Vila. The lantern-lit Plaça del Sol is the favoured spot to take in the vista. Soak it up over a glass of Cava and a slice or two of Ibérico ham at S’Escalinata, an easy-going tapas bar where locals and visitors mingle on the cascade of cushioned steps. Five minutes’ walk from here, Museu d’Art Contemporani d’Eivissa hosts an eye-opening collection of works by artists who found refuge on Ibiza in the 20th century.

Exiting through Portal de Ses Taules, the old town’s grand main gateway, Dalt Vila gives way to the waterfront and the pastel-hued La Marina neighbourhood. Bar-filled Plaça de la Constitució is a popular place to take a break in the heart of the harbour district. At its core lies Mercat Vell, a neo-classical market whose columned facade conceals vendors selling local olive oils, salts and seasonal produce. Dip into neighbouring vintage boutique Holala Ibiza to browse denim jackets and floaty dresses, as well as nearby Ibiza Bagús, which stocks palm-woven bags and beachy kaftans.

It’s a short hop west to Passeig de Vara de Rey — Ibiza Town’s leafy main boulevard. The pedestrianised haven is lined with cafes, bars and restaurants, including long-standing Ca n’Alfredo. At its northeast end lies the site of the island’s first-ever hotel. Opened in the 1930s and famed for hosting the likes of Orson Welles, the establishment lives on in the form of Montesol Experimental, its art deco balconies perched below a rooftop bar overlooking Dalt Vila. The spirited buzz spills over into Plaça del Parc and Born, where stylish locals sample drops from Ibicenco wineries and platters of Balearic cheeses. For something more comforting, grab a streetside table at La Barra de la Bientirada. Their homemade tortilla pintxo (a Basque-style tapa), perfectly gooey and filled with wafer-thin slices of potato, is a real highlight. Otherwise, follow the local crowd west into Eixample, the modern part of Ibiza Town. Reart sees chef David Reartes use homegrown ingredients to craft wonderfully original sharing plates, including grilled squid in tonkatsu (a Japanese sauce). Walk south from here and you’ll soon find the UNESCO-listed Necròpolis Puig des Molins.

Of course, even in the heart of Ibiza Town, the beach is never far away, with the isand’s southern coastline offering a welcome break from the urban hubbub. A 30-minute walk around La Marina brings you to Platja de Talamanca, a broad curve of golden sand perfect for a restorative dip in the turquoise Mediterranean.